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Sunday, March 7
Here I am, a transit passenger, a man without a country at least for a few hours. It is the adventure zone, full of anticipation, waiting and boredoom.
I have officialy exited Switzerland though we are still on the ground there. Next stop, Frankfort where we may clear customs into the EU or USA or remain in transit status.
A passport is a precious thing.
From Frankfort, we will make the mysterious great circle route to San Francisco. It is funny to realize that calculation of the "shortest" route is something from my lifetime and to think about the GPS satellites that guide our journey.
I am now squished in an economy seat on our flight to the US... 9 1/2 hours to go. Hope I can get some more nap. By the time I drive to Truckee, It will be 2am in Europe. Good of Molly to meet me in SF. That will save me a couple hours compared to flying to Reno.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Friday, March 5
A loafing and packing day. I bought a few things, had lunch, packed and had a sauna. :)
It was very warm at the base, but the skiers reported good snow and sunny skies high above the clouds.
We are off to Geneva for a night before leaving the airport at 6:55am on Sunday. It will be god to return home to friends, family and mountains of snow.
Today my thoughts are especially with my cousins Bob and Ken both of whom are in the hospital following major abdominal surgery.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Thursday, March 4
Today was the day of THE lunch. We went to Co to a two star restaurant. We ate on the deck with fine linen, crystal and fancy china. Most of us had the skier's lunch. Three had a regional menu. It was an EXPERIENCE.
We had sun through lunch and a warm cloudy afternoon. This was the first day this week we have had melting snow.
It appears that a storm is aproaching tomorrow and Saturday. Norm and I will skip the last day of skiing unless something suprising happens with the weather. Neither of us care for flat light.
I has been an amazing, rewarding three weeks. Now to find our way home. Friday will be a ski or rest day depending on the weather. We will go to Geneva Saturday morning and fly to Frankfort and then to San Francisco on Sunday morning.
A good trip and good to be home again.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Wednesday, March 3
WOW!! Have I said that before? Long, beautiful sunny day. Out at 9am. Back to my room just at 5pm. Lunch was only an hour so that was 7 hours of pretty solid skiing.
The highlight of the day was sking on a glacier. A big part of the glacier was exposed ice, a beautiful, deep green. We skied next to a cravace in the way down.
I still can't get over how big his area is. The difference between the Alps and US areas is the density of the area. There are big off piste areas between runs and often one cannot see the next trail in either direction. I would guess that the Three Valleys area is probably at least a fifteen mile square.
It was a good karma day. Ralph, the most meticulous engineer imaginable, lost his ski pass. The good news is that in was found and turned in so he has to go back to the Val Thorens side to pick it up but no other damage done. :)
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Tuesday, March 2
Just another crumby day in paradise.
Clear and sunny, snow that squeeked under our skis. We crossed to Courchevel for the day. Occasional icy spots but pretty darn nice and the views are to die for. We had a very nice lunch with spectacular views and desserts almost as nice.
We ate at the airport cafe. A one way runway at about 2800 meters elevation, perhaps 500 feet long with a rise of maybe 50 ft in the middle of it. Utterly amazing but we saw a single engine plane take off successfully and saw pictures of a two engine commercial airliner there. It boggles the mind.
The plane reved it's engine, let the brakes go, rolled down the hill and off the end of the runway. It sort of hung in the air before climbing and turning sharply to avoid the opposite mountain. Yikes.
We skied a bit after lunch and then rode over the ridge back to Mirabel and skied down to the hotel. After a sauna, we went into town to buy wine and beer and a few snacks.
We are off to a pre-dinner party and then dinner.
How very fortunate I feel today. Hugs to all.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Monday, March 1
Yeah, I know, my watch (and I) don't know about leap year.
An incredibly beeautiful, sunny day With a few inches of fresh snow. We did a mega-ski across to the valleys to the east. I skied one really challenging (anf LONG) black slope but had no falls today.
My legs, however, are a monument to pain. The muscles that I use to set my edges are screaming. When I have sent this, I am off to try the sauna.
Late this morning we were at a vista point where we could see maybe sixty different peaks in the Alps including Mt. Blanc. The raw majestic power of the snow and ice covered peaks (and several glaciers) was just incredible.
Looking at this view I felt very humble indeed. It is not nice (or safe) to fool with Mother Nature.)
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Sunday, March 1
We had a fine day. It began with the high egg comedy. The breakfast buffet had a basket of raw eggs and a pot of steaming water with color coded holders for eggs so we could cook an egg to our taste.
The usual thing is just to have a basket of soft or hard boiled eggs. So Chuck took one to his place and knocked the top off...oops raw.
Then he went and put one in to cook and a woman swiped it and was muchly offended when Chuck objected.
Chuck made a third egg which proved to be very under done. Barb, his daughter, told him it was a sign he should avoid eggs. Chuck was not amused.
Our purchase of ski tickets was similar in character. We finaly made it onto the hill about 11 am. The snow was ok but the light was so flat that we al had trouble seeing where we were going.
Mirabel is a BIG place. There are three valleys. In one, we had a run of 4,000 vertical feet.
We had another incredible lunch, a simple place with a view to die for. After lunch, I went doewn the mountainand called it quits. That was 3:30 or so.
We had wine before dinner and dinner with its buffet of French pastries for dessert.
A trip of adventures, but really, adventure is a state of mind.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Friday, February 27
What a way to end the week in Gstaad. We had a little over a foot of the lightest powder snow you can imagine.
It was cloudy, sunny and snowing on and off during the day. We spent almost all our time off groomed trails because the trails were icy in many spots.
The snow was like silk but suprises lurked below the surface for the unweary.
I managed to ski the powder pretty successfully except for one burried dry stream bed. I came over a little rise and nose first into the stream bed. BOOM. Betsy came along and found my poles for me. No harm done. By the end of the day, I was one tired bear, especially my thighs.
Five of us had a hurried dinner and attended the opening of the winter concert series here. I've never seen so many mink coats. :) Black ties everywhere and us almost in ski clothes.
Two Brahms piano etudes, a string quartet and a quintet with piano. An enjoyable evening.
I am all packed and ready to go. Breakfast is at 6:30 and the bus rolls to Geneva at 7:30.
We have to spend six hours in Geneva between getting folks to the airport and picking up three new folks. Then it is on to Miribel, France.
We will try to arrange to go into Geneva during the six hours' wait. It is going to be a long day.
Everything is coming up roses...
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Saturday, February 28
We are on our way to Mirabel France. We had a boo boo. We were on the road by 7:30 this morning and arrived at the Geneva airport by 9:30. A group of us took off for downtown once bags were under control. We expected our bus to Mirabel to show up at 2:30pm. Unfortunatly, the bus showd at 10:30. Chuck, Fritz and our luggage proceded to Mirabel without us.
We left on a public bus to Mirabel at 3:30. The first bus was full, but without luggage it was pretty easy. We just transferred to a second bus which is only half full.
We had a lot of slow traffic getting to Albertville where we transferred, but we are most of the way to Mirabel. Betty and Barb stayed behind to meet Kim, our 2:30 arival. She was delayed, no one seemed to know how much.
We should be in time for dinner. Hopefully the final thre will arrive later tonight.
People who don't do well with flexability shouldn't get passports. :)
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Thursday, February 26
Snow today, gentle flakes with no wind and not too cold. We probably had eight inches on he mountaun by the time I quit. The new snow was like silk.
We had lunch at a tiny country inn high on the mountain. I had a bowl of goolash soup followed by a piece of fruit tart and an expresso. It is hard to imagine a more perfect day.
I think it would be wonderful to stay at that inn or one like it, eitherto ski or to hike in the summer. In the winter, "luggage" would have to be a back pack skied in. I don't know what summer arrangements would be.
May all days be like this one!!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Wednesday, February 25
Yesterday was a nice day. A long one. We took the train two stops down the valley and skied areas on both sides of the road. The snow was rough on both sides, especialy in the morning.
Here were a lot of iceballs (death cookies) on the slopes and places where sheets of ice were showing thru.
Sandy and Betsy had a Faching (fat Tuesday) party last night bedore supper. Fun costumes and a nice time.
Dinner was cheese fondue which made for a lively,fun dinner. Chuck and I had Weinersnitzel to deal with our lactose intolerance.
I have some digestive problems this morning so I am hanging around the room this morning till things settle down. Feels like a lactose problem but I'm baffled where it came from.
I missed the trip to the glacier this morning because of my tumy problems. I may still go up for a few minutes this afternoon, we will see. If not, I will probably miss it since we are supposed to have a snow storm for the rest of the week.
Chuck looked better last night. He goes back to the doctor this afternoon. Hope the report is good. He had one major shortness of breath yesterday afternoon. Asthma, a cold, diabetes and some level of CHF (congestive heart failure) is a VERY bad combination.
I use a Mark Twain quote when teaching first aid. "His last breath is a man's dearest possession." I wish health and hapines to all this day.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Monday, February 23
Snow this morning with poor visibility. Boy is the snow needed. Others were going out late to try and get some ski time.
I feel exhausted and maybe feverish. I have been staying in bed except for getting out of the room for the maid to clean.
It is hard to be patient and rest. Vacation is the wrong time to be sick!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Sunday, February 22
Our week in Italy ended with snow showers. We skied a bit Thursday morning and gave up after skiing in a white out.
We went on a "pub crawl" Thursday afternoon led by the young and beautiful. To much beer for an out of practice bear... lol.
That evening we had a "typical" meal at the hotel. Eight courses including venison and roast pork, both of which were spectacular. I managed to eat only a bite or two of each course until some delightful apple "fritters" came out.
Apple slices in the thinest of batter crusts, fried lightly and doused in cinnamon. Mmmm. They weren't on the menu. We think they were improvised because I was clearly avoiding the milk in several courses. A plate was brought to me, then offered to others. :) A delightful way to end the week.
The star of the party was Jeff, Chuck's son-in-law. He had a full head mask that looked like a wild German.
He ended up dancing with most of the little kids staying at the hotel and providing multiple photo-ops for parents.
Fritz, Chuck's son, had a 60ish rock star wig and shirt. Sandy had a 50ish blonde wig.
Friday morning, we took off in the snow for Munich. Our VW van did very well going over the pass, but we also had a Fiat station wagon. We ended getting out and pushing it thru the steep places. We agreed that FIAT means F..... Infuriating Absence of Traction.
Oh yeah, the Italians number the switchbacks and sign them. 33 on each side of Sella Pass.
We made it to Munich in one piece. Friday night we went out to a bierstube where there was traditional entertainment and a traditional buffet, and, of course, a liter of beer. We had a great time.
Saturday we started to Gstaad via the airport and Geneva. We arrived 1:45 before our flight to mobs of people and long lines. Our plane to Geneva was a puddle jumper. It took forever for the kids to return the cars.
The bottom line is that Fritz and 24 bags didn't arrive with us. Mine made it just fine. We hung out for three hours to wait for Fritz. Most of the bags arrived in Gstad Sunday late morning. My roommate's clothes didn't arrive till supper time.
The snow is awful here in Gstaad. Lots of bare places, and mashed potatoes many places. I dug a ski in a foot or so ona steep bowl and what followed was inevitable.
I fell softly after skiing on one ski for a bit and crawled back up the hill to retrieve my other ski and poles. No harm, no foul. Nice dinner tonight.
One of he things I found out here is that I am the youngster of this bunch. Chuck is fifteen years older than I. Maybe 2/3 of the folks are over 60 and they all outski me... :)
Chuck's age is an issue because he and his kids have inherited the cold I brought. His problems are complicated by age and asthma. He is looking poorly. Hope he recovers soon.
Good people make for a good time. Life is good.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Wednesday, February 18
I finally managed to send you the first three days' messages this afternoon. Whew! I defeated the cyber-grimlins again.
Today was similiar to yesterday's ski but less challenging. We took a bus about ten minutes east and took a cable car up to a high, north facing bowl where there were four lifts. We took several runs on top and had lunch.
This time the run down to the base was more manageable. We did it twice, once before lunch and once after on the way out. A relaxing, laid-back day for the old folks except Carolyn who took the day off.
Meanwhile, the young and the brave went up and across the top of the Sella Groupa. (Our tour on Tuesday circled the Sella Groupe.) Anything but a laid back day for them.
They started by taking three cable cars to the summit, then crossing between the peaks and descending down a step, narrow, rock-filled couliar (sp?) on the opposite side of the loop that we did on Monday. They will come home via the loop or the ski bus. I guess we will hear all about it at supper.
Their trip is nothing I will ever be able to do (or want to.) I didn't start skiing at three and spend five years as a ski instructor or a ski patroler at Squaw Valley.
I am just thankful I am able to ski better today than I have before and am able to enjoy this wonderful place.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Tuesday, February 17
Wow! The trip to Cortina was a trip to the top of the Tofano @ 3244m. We rode two cable cars up to a little valley just below the summit. There were a restaurant and three lifts there. Because we were so high, the snow was pretty good and the scenery amazing. The sky a gorgeous blue. I'll post photos when I get home.
We skied several runs there and then had lunch on top and skied down. 1,800 vertical feet. The first two pitches were terrifyingly steep, the first with soft mogels and the second an icy bowl with cliffs off one side.
Everyone made it down intact and were smiling after it was over.
The remainder of the trip down was a lovely cruise throuth the trees with a number of minor road crossings near the bottom. Most of the crossings were fine though one was rather hard on the bottom of our skis and slowed us quite suddenly. :)
The drive to Cortina and back was difficult. There were two passes, each with about thirty switchbacks (tight U turns.) We know because they number and label each turn. About half our crew had upset stomachs, including folks that NEVER get motion sick. The trip tolk betwen 1.5 and 2 hours each way.
The consensus seems tobe for staying closer to "home"at least for tomorrow.
Oh yeah. I was wrong. Our ski pass is good for 450 ski lifts and 1220 km of ski runs. So much natural beauty is hard to take in. All I can do is to be thankful.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Monday, February 16
A glorious day skiing the Sella Ronda, the 40km loop around the Sella Groupe peaks. The trip was continuous glorious scenery under blue skies with a wide variety of ski terain. There were often more people than was comfortable for the width of the runs. The best parts for me were the unpredictability of the terain and just doing the 40km and 13,000 vertical feet.
Over and over I have been thankful for the Northstar free class I took before I left. The techniques from that class have saved me any number of times. I was especially thankful going down a very step and crowded mogel run in the afternon.
Tomorrow we drive an hour to Cortina for new adventures. The dinners continue to be delicious, the beer and the company good.
To quote a friend from my AT hike, "What have I ever done to deserve to be so happy?" -- bad theology but a good sentiment.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Sunday, February 15
We are in Canazei, Italy
Canazei is on a loop of about 40km, all connected by ski lifts on a common ticket. The ticket is god on over 200 lifts!! It is very nice to have Chuckas a guide so we can just ski and not have to fuss with maps and directions.
We are staying in a very nice **** hotel. It is about half a block down the street to the ski lift. Today we went perhaps 10km via skis to a tiny town for lunch and back.
We waited a bit to get on the lift headed out of town and waited for one of the return lifts but for the rest of the day it was just ski on and go.
Tomorrow, we wil ski the 40km loop. That will be a long day.
There are nine of us on this Italian week, Chuck and his wife, his two children and his son-in-law, another retired guy and I, a friend from Truckee and one other woman.
I brought my cold along. It is too early to know if I wil shake it or not. Bad timing. I have been pleasantly surprised that my ski ability is not handicapping me.
The scenery is just amazing. I am used to beautiful views, but the Dolomites are beyond my experience. Being right in the midst of the mountains with raw peaks on every side is just breathtaking.
The skiing is mostly trail skiing and only difficult in a few spots. There is no fresh snow except at the highest elevations. The Dolomites are relatively low, about 2200 meters. We will be much higher in France.
It is a good day to feel just how fortunate I am.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Sunday, November 2
This is being written on Friday the 7th.
My experience at the Pungwe Bush Camp continued to be as exciting and fufilling as its begining.
Pungwe is owned and run by Luther, a German who emigrated to South Africa from Germany fifty years ago. He is a facinating character. Getting to know him and learn from him was the best part of my stay. He was assisted by three black employees, Issac his guide, and Emma and Sophina as household staff. The feel was of kindness and mutual respect but definitely of the paternal, "old Africa" kind.
Issac accompanied us whenever we were in the bush. He has the most amazing eyes and hearing. He brought animal sitings out of thin air. When we were in the truck, he sat in a seat above the front bumper. When we walked, he walked at the back.
Luther loves to walk and advertises his resort as a walking resort. We left the resort at 5:30 am each morning after having coffee and a slightly sweet rusk to carry us thru the walk.
The first day we walked for five hours and about three hours on the second day. I felt a connection to the land and the continent that was missing before.
The triumph of the first day was walking to within five meters of a feeding bull elephant and leaving without his noticing us.
The second day we walked to a knob where we could see for miles in all directions across the bush.
Returning, when we were a mile or so from the lodge, burried in the bush in the flats, Luther told me to lead us home. Fortunately I had a pretty good idea of direction. I led us to a ridge in the right direction. From there I could see a road crosing our path but couldn't see the resort windmill which I had chosen as a landmark.
Luther told me I was basically in the right place but that there was a "sign" visible to me that would confirm my location. I couldn't see it for the life of me.
I looked for metal signs, wooden signs, concrere signs and then for some sort of natural phenomonon. By this time both Luther and Issac were about to die laughing.
Finally I started to walk to the road. In a couple steps I saw a rusty "no entry" sign a foot or so off the ground. At least I knew that there was one marking the end of the windmill road. A few steps later the windmill came into view. It was great fun.
As we approached the windmill and its trough, we saw three Cape buffalo. They have a reputation of being the most unpredictable of the big game animals and the most dangerous. We followed them and watched from about 40 meters as they approached the trough from the other side and drenk as we suspiciously eyed each other.
The bulk of both mornings was spent examining plants and animal signs. It was great fun to learn how to recognize the territory of a rhino, the path of an elephant and the track of a giraffe.
On our return in the late morning, we would have hot cereal and a piece of fruit followed by a full English breakfast cooked, or at least served, from a griddle over the unending fire out front where the tea kettle boiled.
The first morning, I didn't know the full breakfast was coming. The next day, my "starter" was more modest.
Eggs, bacon, sausages, fried onions, tomatoes and mushrooms, toast and buns and a four or five kinds of jams was a full breakfast.
After breakfast, we would nap or read thru the hot part of the day.
About 4:30pm, we would have tea and load up in the truck and head off looking for large game. Just before sunset, we would stop and have a drink and some peanuts in the bush from a small table complete with table cloth. African sunsets in the bush are beautiful.
Once it was dark, Issac would put away the drinks and table and we would return to the lodge with Issac using a large spotlight to find game.
Two highlights from the drives both involved leopards. First, Issac saw a leopard which moved before I saw it. So, we piled out of the truck and tracked the leopard for a mile or so. We were rather alert, less the trackers become he tracked. After a mile, we concluded that we weren't going to see the leopard and returned to the truck.
A half hour later, we saw an enormous leopard lying by the road. He feared nothing. He strolled up and across the road and down into a dry lake bed. We followed him in the truck to the edge of the lake bed. He could reach water at the bottom of a hole, presumably an elephant footprint. All but his haunches would disappear in the hole. After a bit, he would come up to look about and at us and then drink again. When he had had his fill, he strolled away without a care in the world.
At the lodge, Emma and Sophina would have a delicious dinner waiting. After dinner, I was escorted to my room with the caution that I was not to leave it for any reason before sunrise. My bed would be turned down, the mosquito nets down and all the lamps lighted bathing everything in a soft romantic glow.
Luther used to do private safaris for groups of up to four people, so we fell to talking about his ideal safari. He decided it would begin from Jo'berg by going through the Khalahari Desert, through the Okavango Delta, to Victoria Falls and then back to Jo'berg taking a month for the journey. I told him I was going to try and make something like that happen sometime soon. He replied that when I was ready, I should call him and just maybe he would take us rather than my going with an operator and a dozen couples. What a trip that would be.
Let us live with open eyes and breathe in the beauty all around us.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Friday, November 7
Dear Best Beloved,
Sorry for my long delay in writing. I needed time to gain a little perspective. I have decided to leave the Odyssey bicycle tour. I am sad that I am going to miss three weeks of South Africa due to my premature departure.
As you all know, This trip and especially Africa has been an amazing and very rewarding experience for me. I hope somehow to return to Africa before long. Its beauty and wildness touch my soul.
But for now, it is time to face up to the fact that I have lost no weight in over a month (probably gained some,) that I am cycling less well than a month ago and feeling depressed and very lonely.
During the trip, I have been the repeated target of verbal jibes by an insensitive (or abusive) world rider. My experience tells me that "fixing" this relationship is unlikely, and, in a group of five, avoiding him is all but impossible.
My emotional response to his verbal jibes has become disabling and
moving on seems the right choice for me. So, tomorrow I will fly to Capetown and spend four nights there before flying home on the thirtenth.
It will be good to be home where significant snow has already fallen and to be with family for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Then new adventures await.
This decision has been difficult for me but the peace and calm I have felt since I made it tell me I am doing the right thing.
My hope for today is that, from now on, I will be more sensitive to the effects of my words on others and that my empathy for all whom I encounter will expand.
Walk in Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Change of Plans
I will arrive home on the night of November 13. More later.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Friday, October 31
Happy Halloween1! Well, here I am.
I am the only guest at a resort whose capacity is four couples.
The living/dining space is a thatched roof with no sidewalls lighted by a couple dozen oil lamps. One of the couches has an end covered by a towel. It was demolished by a leopard a few weeks ago.
My room is a cabin under this thatched roof with canvas side walls and tiled floors.
I am in a rustic four poster bed surounded by clouds of white, lacy mosquito netting. Light is provided by two oil lamps in the bedroom and four more in the bath.
The bath has a tiled shower big enough for two (with a clear door) and a separate claw foot tub.
Hot water is by appointment, provided by a wood fired gadget behind each cabin.
All in all, an incredibly romantic setting.
This afternoon I stood at the resort entrance watching an old bull elephant eating less than ten meters away. Tonight I had a god view of a leopard slipping away from a water tank.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Wednesday, October 29
We had a nice breakfast, left our camping and bicycling stuff at the hostel and went into Hazyview to shop.
While others were doing food for tonight, I collected a hodge podge of stuff including an adapter to South African electric plugs, local mosquito dope, SA adventure magazines, a light weight long sleeve shirt, laundry soap and money. Then we headed for Krugar Park.
BTW, I am going to leave the Odyssey tour for two days on Friday to go to a private refuge adjoining Krugar. I will rejoin Odyssey Sunday evening.
Within minutes of entering Krugar Park this morning we saw a giraffe from about 15 ft and two herds of Impala up close as well.
I can't start to describe how exciting it was to be eye to eye with this giraffe. The giraffe was calmly nibbling leaves from a tree next to the road and was totally unconcerned about us.
We are in Pretorious Kop (camp) within the park We have three small round stucco buildings, each with thatched roofs and two beds. The whole compound is surrounded by a big fence with large steel cables in it to keep the wild beasts out. No one but park vehicles is allowed in or out between 6pm and 5:30am.
I did a twilight open vehicle drive Wednesday evening, a sunrise drive Thursday morning, a night drive Thursday evening and several aditional drives with Mike in the van. John, the native guide is amazingly good. Mike is also excellent, especially with the birds.
The sensory overload is amazing. Last night, I was maybe seven feet from the nose of a male lion. He was walking down one lane of a blacktop road and I was on the near side of a truck in the other lane. This morning in the van with Mike I was as close to a Cape buffalo. The buffalo is much more dangerous.
Last night we we saw all the "big five," lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, white rhino and elephants tho we were a long way from the leopard. We were among a herd of over 100 buffalo at one stage last evening.
We also saw giraffe, zebras, wart hogs, baboons and antelope variations without number. The impalas were especially exciting when they bounded back and forth.
This morning we stopped to watch a mongoose nursery right by the side of the road, part of which was in an abandoned termite mound. As we waited, more and more pups appeared. We stopped counting at 30.
This is a birder's paradise. I think Kirby and Ralph's lists each have over 50 new species in less than two days.
I learned a little more about Frances and Edwin who run the hostel at Hazyview. Frances grew up in Holland. She owns an enormous Mercedes truck outfitted to take twenty folks and two guides on student style safaris. She has been in Africa for the last 15 years guiding thse trips.
Three years she and Edwin met. They leased a derlict building and 150 acres of land from a luxury lodge and went into business/farming themselves. Frances still has her truck which she has hired guides for. She plans to lead a couple trips each year as well as running the hostel.
Edwin does the farm, leads bush walks and works in Krugar Park doing animal relocation.
Africa has surely captured my imagination. Who knows what is next.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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October 25-28
I don't think I told you about our South African arrival, just about our frantic departure. All our stuff arrived fine and we were more or less on time.
We arrived in Joberg Saturday noon. Our hotel was budget prefab, twin over double bunk bed screwed to the wall and a prefab bath. I had a wonderful t-bone steak for supper for less than $5.
We spent the afternoon at the best bike shop I have ever been in. They put all our bikes in supurb shape. He two black mechanics and the owner are through pros.
Sunday morning we went to a large mall, mostly on a book buying mission. Then we drove two hours to Dullstrum where our bicycling was to start. We stayed n a wonderful three bedroom vacation home and had meals at the pub of the local hotel. I had a fabulous ox tail stew for supper.
Monday was sort of a routine day. 50kb, mostly downhill after a modest initial climb. We were in the high velt, which has had a multi-year dorught. The fields are sitting idle because the land is to dry to plant (it is euivalent to late April here.)
We had heavy fog & mist for the morning and overcast until after we were in camp. We ended up in a pleasant campground and had dinner and breakfast in a pleasant guest house with a very homey feel.
Today was up, up, up for the first 20km, then a sudden view that shows why many call South Africa the most beautiful country in the world. The whole day was nice, but that moment was sublime. I rode about 60k of the hundred km day,.
Tonight we are in a wonderful backpacker hostel that is a little paradise in the jungle run by a lovely couple. They just caught a baboon spider right where I was eating supper. He is about three inches across and jumps and bites. Yikes!!
Edvard, our host, works for Kruger Park and is involved in relocation of 60,000 animals as a part of the internationalization of the park.
Kruger park is on South Africa's border. It is being combined with parks on the border of two adjoining countries. Edvard says a significant part of the border fence is already down.
I have decided to leave the tour for two days and extend my Kruger experience at a private lodge adjoining the park. I will spend two nights in the park with our group.
On the third day, I will be shuttled to the private lodge and two days later, be returned to the tour. We will see how that all works out.
I have a new call phone number:
011-27-072-687-3323
I had better run and get packed for morning.
Today's quote:
I came to see if I could learn what it had to teach and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. I came to live deep and suck all the marrow out of life ...
-- Thoreau/Walden
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Friday, October 24
I know, I am always saying "What a day!" This one started sort of calmly. The only tasks of the morning were cleaning out the van and getting bike boxes for the other four bikes. Mine was long since in its suitcase. Bobbi found a Decathleon store and they had boxes.
Two trips to the airport were required, one for two of us and the bikes, the other for the remaining three folks and their luggage.
Life didn't get interesting till we got to the front of the check-in line. South Africa enforces the common regulation that you have an exit ticket on entry.
Of course, the world riders didn't. I had mine, but the world rider's exit tickets were TKA responsibility and hadn't been purchased yet. That was solved by making last minute reservations that will be cancelled tomorrow and faxing the etickets to Air Portugal.
Then, we checked in and Air Portugal demanded $5,000 (OMG) in excess baggage charges from Bobbi. A game of "chicken" ensued in which we stood around for an hour before the airline agreed to settle for $2,000 about 20 minutes before the flight was to leave.
Once the charges were paid (using two world rider credit cards,) we ran (literally) to the gate and got on the plane. Hopefully our bags made it too. (we just took off.)
Clearly the game of chicken was enormously successful (saving $3,000) but I wouldn't be in Bobbi's shoes for all the tea in China. Different people have different skills and temperments.
Mike, a South African tour guy, will care for us for a week at which time Tim (the owner of this outfit) is supposed to arrive to be our guide.
We bike two days before getting to Kruger Park and bike five days after to get to the east coast. There are also several other layover days and surface transportation days involved.
I'd guess that takes most of two weeks. Then we settle down to long, consecutive days of cycling til we reach Capetown on December 1. After a layover day, I fly to Amsterdam, layover 30 hours and fly on to Reno to arrive Dec. 5. Whew.
Just had an airline supper. We are at the north edge of the Sahara according to the airline map. 9:45 til we arrive...yawn.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Thursday, October 23
Lisboa layover day. I had a nice walk chasing cheap Internet before giving up and using the hotel's extremely expensive one.
Discovered that I remembered incorrectly about South Africa and anti-malarial drugs, so I went to thre nearby pharmacy, got the drug and started it. It only cost 1/3 of what it would in the US.
Packed my bike, had lunch and answered some emails. It is a pity that I haven't done more cultural stuff, Oh well (my favorite refrain.)
I'l go out, send this stuff and do another walk before dinner. And, just maybe, find a suitable bookstore.
Adventure awaits. Live large, dream wild, love extravagently!!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Wednesday, October 22
We are in Lisbon at last and our European riding is over. We fly out to South Africa Friday night.
Today was beautiful. We had high winds last night but no moisture. This morning, we had postcard weather.
I skipped some narrow, busy roads with big hills, but did 50k of some of the nicest riding of the trip including a stretch along the Atlantic Ocean coming into the Lisbon outskirts.
Bobbi shuttled us in the last 20 k which took over two hours. Unbelievable congestion.
Now we have the chaos of getting everything packed and ready to go. We have two days so it shouldn't be a problem. I will try and get my Bike Friday into its suitcase tomorrow so I am free of the chaos on Friday.
Getting five bike boxes and getting them packed will be a major project. Then all the TKA stuff that goes has to be packed or put in someone's baggage.
While we were waiting for the van, I found an English language used bookstore. I just wish I had had more money with me, but I got two mysteries and Jane Austin's Emma.
The latter was in a bin of romance novels. :) Maybe I will get lucky and find anoher English language bookstore tomorrow.
I hope there is some conversation at dinner about activities for tomorrow. We are supposed to hear about the initial South Africa plans tonight to, but I am not holding my breath.
Today is a gift, that is why it is called the present.
Walk in Love,
Silly Old Bear
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Tuesday, October 21
Finally we had a nice fall day. I didn't ride much. I was very slow, so since Bobbi had to do a route guide this afternon, I took a ride in. Given the nice day, I should have gotten out 25k from camp, but I didn't. Oh well again. It is actually so nice I have shorts on for the first time in a week or more.
Cycling in Italy and France, etc. where there are a lot of recreational cyclists and a tradition of cycling is much more pleasant and relaxed than in poorer environments like Portugal and rural Spain.
Right now, I am feeling done with cycling, about six weeks too soon. Once I've seen my first thousand cork oaks, I've seen them all.
I'll have to see how I feel once the Kruger Park part of the South Africa trip is over and the trip moves to daily cycling along the coast. Hopefuly it will feel new enough to get me going again. But enough time for that when I get there.
It turns out we will have two full days in Lisboa (Lisbon) before we fly. I guess I had better borrow Kirby's guide book and try to think up something to do there.
Molly tells me there was a big fire on the slope across the lake from our house. Sounds like no skiing yet ... grin.
Think Snow!!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Monday, October 20
Gawd, what a day. All is well now, I am warm and dry and the sun is shining.
There was a sky full of stars when we finished supper. Supper was very nice and abundant. It rained during the night. No big problem, but I had earplugs in and the sleeping bag covering me so things got a bit more damp than I would have preferred before I woke up.
This morning started with heavy fog and mist. Riding in morning rush hour with big trucks, no shoulders, bridges with metal plates in the roadway and little vision was way scarey.
About 4k into the ride, stopped on an uphill, tried to get off my bike and my right foot didn't release from the pedal. Over I went Boom. Tore my shorts rather revealingly but otherwise no harm done.
A bolt had come out of the cleat on the right shoe so the cleatturned with the pedal rather than the shoe. So I rode back to camp and stole a bolt out of my old shoes.
Half way thru the ride, there was a major trafic jam. When I rode forward past the stalled traffic I found the road full of school children and some adults, all with flowers, getting organized to go somewhere across a bridge going right from our road. I couldn't figure what it was all about so I smiled when a teacher let me thru in front of her class and went on my way.
There were a few spits of rain on the ride until I started the final climb into Fatima. My derailer wasn't working worth a darn and I climbed in a steady rain. That was a pain, especially having to get off when I wanted to change gears.
I was all right til the exercise from the climb ended, then I was VERY cold going to the hotel on a slight downgrade.
Bobbi was nowhere to be found for the last 2/3 of the ride. She showed up looking for me a km or so from the end when I bore a fair resemblance to a half drowned rat, especially in temperment. Somehow I was able to limit myself to growling "Bobbi, what do I need to do?"
I eventually handed my bike off to Bobbi for repair and got a hot shower followed by curling up under the blankets. Bobbi showed up later saying there was nothing wrong with the bike. I got out of my cocoon, dressed in my winter warmies, and demonstrated the problem. She asked me to come along to the repair shop.
Then my luck got better. The cable housing "exploded" in the mechanics hands. With new cable and housing, it works ever so much better.
Kirby's bottom bracket problem may or may not be less critical, but the guy couldn't fix it with the parts Bobbi or he had. Kirby is not a happy fellow.
I didn't make it into Fatima from the hotel, but I can do without one more Catholic shrine.
A little food, sending this and getting a good night's sleep will suit me just fine.
In the midst of all these little annoyances, it is especially important for me to remember those many folks who are less fortunate than I, those who are without food, or homes, those who adicted, lonely disabled, in pain, suffering in mind or body or dying. One more oportunity to give thanks for all that I have.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Sunday, October 19
The rain continued thru the night on and off. Lots of my stuff was damp including my sleeping bag.
It rained on the route several times today so my bike clothes and I were wet as well. I had intended to 80km of the route, but it ended up being 60. Oh well, there is always tomorrow.
Blessedly, when we arrived at the campsite, the sun was shining, the wind was blowing and it had not rained for several hours.
I got my tent and sleeping bag dry and got set up. I have a few things left on the line, but mostly I am recovered. I sure hope that it doesn't rain tonight.
Three more biking days in Europe, then we pack up and fly to South Africa on the evening of the 24th.
It looks like the South African weather should be nice. Temperature in the 20's (70's and 80's) and relatively dry. We will see.
When the van gets back, I had better clean and oil my chain. With all this rain, it is a mess and I saw one spot of rust this morning.
Tomorrow we go into Fatima. Then south to Lisboa (Lisbon.)
There is not a working phone in sight so who knows whether I can send this tonight. But the sun is shining, the bike is lubed and beer is 55 cents, so life isn't all that bad ... grin.
Friends are the greatest of God's gifts.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Saturday, October 18
Tis a rainy day in Portugal, at least in Evora. I slept in until about ten and went to wander the town. It has sprinkled on and off all day, not a great problem. I haven't found Evora very exciting, but it has been a nice, relaxing day.
I had a plate of pimentos, garlic and oil, a bowl of olives and a basket of good bread with a beer for $3.00. Not a bad way to live.
I am going to an early dinner with Stacia and maybe Kirby a little after six. Then an early bed for me. I hope this rest will give me more energy for tomorrow. A slightly drier tomorrow would be nice too.
Bobbi isn't back from route building yet. I hope, for her sake, that this isn't too long and hard a day for her.
If she has to build the route guides from scratch for all four days, sag the routes each day, preside at dinner, provide breakfast each day, get the bikes packaged for the South Africa flight and get the European segment of the trip shut down by the 23rd, she is gonna have to be SuperWoman or be one very tired lady by the time she gets back Califonia. Oh well, she doesn't say no.
There are three gifts from God, faith, hope and love. And the greatest of these is love.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Friday, October 17
Today was a, "so what" kind of day. 57km on a busy road with no shoulders. The first part was in heavy, wet fog with construction but no traffic.
It got difficult as we neared Evora. There was oncoming traffic most of the time and some very large trucks that came all together too close for comfort. No one was hurt so it fits in the "all's well that ends well" catagory.
Most of the way, there was a grass shoulder even with the road, so, when I could, I ducked onto the grass to give the trucks room.
We have a layover day tomorrow and I got in by noon, so I did laundry and napped this afternoon.
Bobbi is off trying to create route guides on the layover day. She has 135km of totally new route to do for Sunday and thre more consecutive days after that.
Tim keeps delaying his arrival. He was originally supposed to come to Barcelona. Now the rumor is that he won't come to Europe at all. I can't imagine how Bobbi can get the routes to Lisbon done by herself while providing sag service. We will have to see what choices she makes.
Things may be in worse financial shape and rumors are flying among the riders. The rumor mongors don't seem to me to have a very good grasp of bankrupcy. My work life gave me a few lessons on dealing with tottering companies. sigh.
So far, all commitments are being met.
I am going to walk into town with Kirby for dinner about seven. Tomorrow, I will spend most of the day exploring Evora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whatever that means.
And I will be resting for the big day to follow.
"I reckon a fellow is bout as happy as he has a mind to be." - Kin Hubbard
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Thursday, October 16
Today we rode from Rosal de la Fontera, Spain to Monsaraz, Portugal.
Again today, fog settled in as we were having breakfast. I rode either in fog or under overcast almost all day. It was just fine once I removed my glasses so I could see. The traffic was light and the riding cool.
The day was 80km (50 mi.) There wasn't any town, not even a coffee shop until two km from the end. I did it all, tho I walked a couple steep spots. The day wasn't especially fast, but I did a solid 20kph. Good enough for me. Eventually, I need to get my distance up a good deal, but I felt like a "real" bicyclist today.
I got in about 1pm, just after the fog and overcast cleared. Wegot an extra hour, thanks to a time change at the border. I got my shower and town clothes and then Bobbi gave me and my bike a boost up to Monsaraz, the tiny ancient hill town nearby with a view to die for. I spent about three hours wandering and talking with Andy, then we rode back to our B & B, a Rural Turistmo, a B & B on a farm.
Monsaraz is a tourist destination with lots of native crafts on sale, especially pottery. I'll bet it is mobbed in the summer, but it was beautiful, peaceful and largely empty for us.
I forgot to tell about a Sevilla experience. I was in the Alcazar Real gardens. I passed a French couple with a toddler. She wandered toward me, so with a nod from her parents, I knelt down and spoke to her in my few words of French.
She gurgled a bit, wandered to her parents then came back to me and stuck out her arms sideways. I shaped my hands to pick her up and waited. She stepped between my hands, so I picked her up, carried her the few steps to her mother and set her down.
A good time was had by all. I do need a grand daughter...smile. Besides, the shops were full of doll furniture and sheerling capes for little girls.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Tuesday/Wednesday, October 14/15
I seem to be running out of steam. I did 80km of a hundred km ride yesterday and gave up after 20km today with hand and leg cramps, and I expect, more than a bit of depression to go with it. I had all sorts of nightmares last night which I am sure didn't help any.
I rode with Bobbi to set the route into Evora. We got back about 7pm. Dinner is at eight tho I don't feel like eating much.
We are in a small town 3km from the Portugal border. Not much of a happening place.
The good news is that my derailer was a sad mess yesterday. Last night I cleaned it throughly and did a bit of bending and adjusting and it worked fine today.
We had showers yesterday and a good deal of dense fog on the route today. Fall weather, I guess. The land is pretty desolate around here. I would hate to try to make a living hereabouts.
I have 50 days til I get home, the other riders have 75 days. it seems shadows of home and what is next for each of us are high in everyone's minds.
So, the thought for today is that life is what happens while we are making other plans.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Monday, October 13
I was up and out by about 9am on my Sevilla layover day. Sevilla was a ghost town. Amazing! It finally woke up betweeen 11 and noon. Bobbi says it is some sort of holiday, but these are not morning people ... lol
I walked across one of the bridges I described yesterday and back across the other.
Then I walked down and across to the remaining fragment of the old city wall. The bacillica there was beautiful, light and bright with lovely frescos on the ceiling. I don't know if it is recently restored or a new structure, but the bright clarity of the art is wonderful. It surely didn't have hundreds of years of candle smoke hiding it. A wedding had just ended so there was organ music and lots of folks dressed to the 9's and a bride being photographed.
Then I got lost wandering and people looking. I eventually made it to the cathedral, Gilarda and the Alcazar Real. The cathedral was awe inspiring gothic. A lovely space and lovely windows and too much stuff inside for my taste. I climbed the Girada tower, 34 revolutions up, for the city view. It is a tower built by the Moors and converted to the bell tower of the cathedral.
The Alacazar Real, and particularly its extensive walled gardens were the highlight of my morning. Just doesn't get better.
I had a few tapas for lunch and wandered back to the hotel for siesta. My siesta was interupted by some route guide printing. Later, I may try to see if the contemporary art museum is open late on Monday.
I am foot sore but Sevilla is still one of my favorite cities.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Saturday/Sunday, October 11/12
What a pair of days. I don't quite know what happened, but we got three days' route guides done on Saturday but didn't make it back to Cordoba until almost 4am Sunday morning. By 7:45am, I was up printing the guides and getting on the road.
We had lots of lightning and thunder and bits of rain till we got back to Cordoba. Then I fell asleep to steady hard rain. We woke to mixed sunshine and sprinkles which persisted thru the day today.
The ride today was 140km from Cordoba to Sevilla. This morning I expected to be dragging after two sleep deficient nights, but I rode the first 75 km of the ride at over 25km/hour in flats and rolling hills.
That is as fast as I have ever ridden and much faster than any other day on this trip. It feels soooo good. I actually felt powerful and could power up modest or very short hills without slowing down.
I am learning to stand and pedal effectively again for a change of pace or for very steep (and short) hills. I might even get fit someday ... grin. It is spin classes for me this winter.
Then, after 90km, I got two flat tires in 4km. I spent over an hour messing with them without success, so when Bobbi came by, I put the bike together with a new tire and tube and hopped a ride into Sevilla so I wouldn't be keeping her on the route.
I am watching bicycles and writing this while Ralph tries to guide Bobbi and the van to the hotel. I have my stuff in a day pack with me so this van thing is of no benefit to me.
It ended up taking Bobbi an hour to get he van, drive to the hotel and park the van again. It's a shame she had to do it.
Stacia and Kirby are talking about some sort of bull fight experience. I will duck out unless everyone else goes. More spectator sports...lol. About as appealing to me as spectator sex.
Boy does a hot shower and a shave feel good after a day like this one. I just feel great now.
Sevilla is a delightful combination of old and new. They have wonderful contemperary architecture, especially the Olympic stadium and many bridges.
One is an asymetric suspension bridge with a single angled tower and cables down to the roadway.
The second has a single arch supported in turn by arches over the roadway at each end. The bridge hangs from the main arch. The arches are white "concrete." The three arches are very fluid and flow into one another. The result is incredibly beautiful.
Another bridge has curved fabric constructions which shade a pedestrian walkway and give it an incredibly fluid effect, looking like a flight of birds.
Unfortunately, Andy hasn't come in by 5:35pm. He is rooming with me and this probably doesn't fortell a good mood when he arrives. If he isn't in and doesn't call by six or a little after, Bobbi will have to drive the last 120k of the route again looking for him from his last seen point.
She is taking a cat nap now in case she has to go out. If she goes, I will probably ride with her.
When Andy is safely in, Bobbi, Ralph and I (and maybe Andy) are planning to go out for tapas. Spain is the land of real tapas. Every bar serves their version of standard ones and a few house specialties. Three or four plates is the perfect lunch or dinner for me. Two plates anda couple drinks might be as much as $4...lol
Another food story. Saturday, after we had the routes complete, Bobbi led us into this doorway in a little town in Portugal where the last route ended.
We found we were in the kitchen of a restaurant. There was a counter where we ordered dinner as locals ordered to carry out.
Then we went into their beautiful little country dining room. For about $30 (for two), we were served two of the best dinners I hae ever had.
That included two beers before dinner, two main courses with salad, and a port for me and a coffee for Bobbi afterward.
Bobbi ordered a wonderfully flavored and tender piece of pork. I had a fish that was, I think, fried and put in a casorole with wonderful potatoes. One more place I could sure enjoy hanging out for a bit.
It is a great big world out there, full of wonderful people and experiences, just waiting for each of us to join in. Let the adventure begin!!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Friday, October 10
We had a 60k ride into Cordoba. It was both short and predominately downhill. The scenery was olive trees, much older and less geometric than yesterday. We stayed in a lovely pension in Baena last night. The landlady let us use her table, linen cloth and china for our breakfast. Such style!
As we got into the flats we had lots of cotton being harvested. There was cotton everywhere.
I took off with Bobbi route building. Bobbi really didn't like the campground in Sevilla, so we had to redo 40km of that route to get to a hotel in Sevilla. We ended up staying in another hotel, getting in at midnight. It was a festival night, drums and crowds till am...yawn
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Thursday, October 9
It was a beautiful fall day, 100km thru the hills of Spain's olive oil region. Finally, after a week, the bad weather system has moved on. All around were beautiful fields with olive trees in neat geometric patterns and tiny whitewashed towns. The route was gently rolling with more descents than ascents. I was able to finish in Baena in pretty good shape.
Tomorrow we go from Baena to Cordoba, a 50km day with even less climbing than today. Then there is another layover day. Bobbi says no serious climbing till we get to Portugal on Wednesday or Thursday.
I just splurged on a real meal for lunch, salad, bread, rice and a thin piece of swordfish. It arrived with a pot of olive oil and garlic to spread on the fish... yum
Live in joy and gratitude. Anything else isn't really living!
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Wednesday, October 8
Well, we have three day's route guides done and are headed back to Granada on the freeway. Still to do is managing to print tomorrow's out.
We stopped at an internet place and downloaded the driver (all 160 meg of it) It unpacked but the install failed, so the next step is to see if the driver will install anyway.
If not, the spread sheet goes on CD and we go looking for an internet place with Excel and a printer. Hope we are lucky.
It is a beautiful sunny fall day, warm enough that we are running the a/c this afternoon.
When we get in, I have to put up my tent and get the printing done and hopefully get some laundry done. It will be tight because we won't get back till about 7-8pm.
I missed seeing the Alhambra by spending my layover day this way. I regret that but wouldn't do it differently if I did it over.
Making a choice and living with it is more important than what choice you make.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Tuesday, October 7
I had digestive troubles last night so, with very little sleep and little nutrition, I decided to sit out today. Not a good thing for either fitness or weight loss. Oh well.
I am taking my day and a half of layover to help Bobbi build the routes for the next three days. We got one done this afternoon and hope to get two more done tomorrow as well as driving back to camp and a gob of tech stuff necessary to print them out from my laptop. Bobbi has been so supportive of me, I want to pay her back a bit in this way.
For today's route, we spent two hours finding the starting few km. There was a whole new section of town, dozens of apartment towers, being built on top of the original route from 2000.
Tim is supposed to arrive in Sevile on Sunday. Bobbi is supposed to return to the US shortly thereafter and Tim will be our tour leader for Portugal and thn for South Africa. A new and different experience.
No rain today except for a few sprinkles in the early morning. Thank goodness. It was a gorgeous ride.
Give thanks with a grateful heart!
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
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Monday, October 6
It was a day and a half. Big headwinds all day. My glutes were very painful about half way through in spite of stopping and stretching several times. So I finished the day in the van. Other folks said it was one of their toughest days.
The weather was threatening at the end of theday so we are in a cabin at a campground tonight.
Ralph went to the ocean to swim and found conditions too rough for comfort. When he got out, he found he had been carried down the beach far enough he couldn't see his shirt and shoes which he had left at water's edge.
I used my pc to recover one group of pictures for Bobbi and unfortunately confirmed that she somehow corrupted another flash card with two day's pictures. Here I am delivering bad news again. Oh well.
Now for Morocco. We went on Saturday. We got up and out by a little after nine. Unfortunately, between walk, bus and ferry, we didn't get to Tangir till a little after 3. We had about four hours in Tangir. We had lunch in a wonderful little place full of locals where we were treated very well and charged fairly. The star of the lunch was mint tea with an inch of fresh mint leaves in it. Everyone loved it.
There were a million little stands and shops selling everything imaginable. We tasted some local honey sweets and some wonderful minature French pastries.
Both French and Spanish were useful in Tangir, English less so. There were very few tourists around, sowe had more of a locals experience.
After standing in endless lines, we just made the 7:30 ferry, and after a wait, got the last bus back to La Linea. After walking across the border to Gibraltar and back to the hostel, we arrived about midnight. A long day and a short night.
Love extravagently, because loveis never wasted.
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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Sunday, October 5
So much has happened and finally we are back on bikes. Today, we backtracked from Gibralter before heading north tomorrow. It was a chaotic day with lots of mistakes in the daily guide. Kirby still isn't in at 6:30pm. Andy came in in the van. I skipped two sections, including a 10km climb. I did about 85km, I think. I had no problems to speak of but other folks are pretty worked up.
Bobbi is half way between tearing her hair and crying about some combination of the work she has to do and not knowing what to do about Kirby. Bobbi was overloaded before and now she is trying to prepare the route guides on top of everything else to give Tim some time for some essential desk time. Oh well.
On Thursday, we drove 1200km from Barcelona. It was like any other long distance drive in a packed car. We got into Gibraltar very late.
We just managed to check into the hostel and then finally find a restaurant that was still serving. Gibraltar is throughly British and keeps English hours, not at all like the Spain that surrounds it. Shops close at 6 and restaurants quit serving at 9:30 ot ten, aboiut the time a Spanish restaurant gets busy. Anyhow, it blew the budget but we got fed.
Friday was a Gibralter layover day. I did a tour of the Rock, found I had lost the front axle of my bike while packing it for the trip and luckily replaced it.
A little known fact. To drive into Gibraltar, you have to drive across the runway of the Gibraltar airport. When a plane needs to take off or land, the road is closed! Fortunately, there aren't very many flights.
About the rock. It is about 1000 ft tall and a little over a mile long. Seen from the side, it looks like any rocky ridge. The end facing the airport is the cragy peak that you see in the Prudential ads. It is a block of limestone, sitting on a much younger sandstone base. They speculate that the Rock was tumbled there when the Africian and European tectonic plates separated anf the Mediteranian filled. That must have been quite a show. :)
The Rock has a number of caverns in it and is riddled with man made tunnels. The earliest tunnels and the ones we toured were cut during the Great Seige in 1779-1783. At that time the Spanish and the French were trying to evict the Brits. The invaders were making progress, moving across the Peninsula where the airport is now. The Brits cut a tunnel into the rock which let guns fire from the famous rock face down on the enemy while being perfectly protected.
We got to go down the tunnel, which contained verious exhibits and re-inactments. We also got to tour St. Michael's cave at the other end of the Rock.
Today, Gibralter is nominally an independent country, a member of the Britich Commonwealth. The Spanish still want to evict the British, this time via the United Nations. One sees various window stickers, news articles, etc. supporting one side or the other.
One important factor in this struggle is that Gibraltar has a substantial population of observant Jews, an "island" surrounded by countries where Catholicism is the state religion.
During WWII, a large number of tunnels were cut including a complete hospital, burried in the Rock.
The bar and snack food in Gibraltar is fish and chips, steak and kidney pie, bangers and mash, shepard's pie and all that stuff.
On Saturday, we made a day trip to Morocco via ferry. More on that tomorrow.
Rejoice!
Walk In Love,
Pooh, Silly Old Bear
http://billperson.org/travel/
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